Along with the spiritual symbolism of a plant that frees deep emotions, amiability, confiding love, and good taste, Fuchsias are often gifted to represent trust, love, and heartfelt emotions, making them a perfect symbol for meaningful relationships. Fuchsias are simple to grow when given optimal conditions and proper nutrition. Despite their delicate appearance, fuchsias have hardy flowers that thrive in various conditions, embodying resilience and inner strength.
Fuchsia belongs to the family Onagraceae (evening primrose) and is native to Central and South America and New Zealand. They have common names such as Bleeding Hearts, Lady’s Eardrop, and the Hummingbird Plant. Flowers are composed of clusters of colorful sepals and petals that form a skirt around the stamens (Figure 1). There are more than 100 varieties to select from, with varying flower colors and habits from genetic produces. Varieties range across semi-trailing, trailing and upright habits which can be grown as deciduous shrubs, potted flowering plants, or the popular hanging baskets.

Figure 1: Fuchsia flower form (Dümmen Orange, Trailing Dark Eyes)
While Fuchsia naturally prefers cooler temperatures, many of the selections today have been bred to tolerate heat, allowing plants to perform into the summer season. Fuchsia grows well with cooler temperatures, 55°F nights and 60-65°F days are ideal, although they will grow and bloom well with night temperatures as high as 65°F. Growing fuchsia too warm results in soft, lush growth. Night temperatures below 55°F can be tolerated but will delay blooming. Fuchsia is a moderate to heavy feeder. Keep them evenly moist and fertilized at 200 ppm N constant feed of 20-10-20 or 21-5-20 with rotation of a calcium containing fertilizer such as 15-0-15. The ideal pH is 5.5-6.2. Higher pH can lead to iron deficiency, easily corrected with an application of Plantex Iron EDDHA or DTPA. Common container sizes for Fuchsia are either 4.5” with one plant per pot (ppp) or 10” hanging baskets with four ppp.
Fuchsias are obligate long day plants, meaning they require long days to bloom. Flowering and growth can be stimulated by providing 4 hours of light during the middle of the night at times of the year when photoperiods are naturally short (e.g., winter throughout early spring). A timer can be set to turn the lights on from 10 PM to 2 AM to achieve the desired day-length extension. Continue to light them until the vernal equinox which is March 20th. Flower buds are initiated in mid-March and require a minimum of 12 weeks to achieve a blooming fuchsia for Mother’s Day.
The recommended Fuchsia PGR program is outlined as follows:
If you get a late start to planting fuchsia, make sure your plants have good roots. Increase the number of plants to 5-6 ppp for a 10” basket. Don’t use Florel past Feb 25th, and hand-shear the early buds. Plants need to accumulate carbohydrates to produce later buds and blooms, so avoid low light levels which could inhibit flower bud formation even after the days are long enough to support flower initiation. Avergage daily temperature is the largest factor in the rate of bud development.
Aphids can pose a problem on the tender new growth of fuchsias (Figure 2). Altus, Endeavor, Mainspring, Safari or Kontos are systemic drench options. Kontos as a drench may take 2 weeks for uptake but provide 6 weeks control. Kontos is also our only systemic miticide against mites. Broad mites can be troublesome, as they inject toxins while feeding, leading to leaf curling. Be cautious of pesticide applications that may also cause leaf curl. Translaminar insecticides such as Avid, Pylon, Savate or Sirocco are top choices, making two applications one week apart.

Figure 2. Aphids on Fuchsia
Rust, a leaf disease, is distinctly identified by the bright orange powder visible on both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. It can disfigure leaves and cause defoliation if left untreated. The alternate host for this pathogen is the fir tree and fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium), a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the willowherb family Onagraceae. Rust can spread quickly in a greenhouse, so at the first sign of infection, remove symptomatic leaves, seal them in a plastic bag, and discard them properly. Apply a systemic fungicide, such as Avelyo, Mural, or Postiva, with two applications one week apart, and follow up with protectant fungicides while rotating MOAs to prevent reoccurrence. Root diseases can disrupt water and nutrient uptake. To protect against root pathogens such as Pythium, Phytophthora, and Thielaviopsis, monthly preventative drenches are recommended. Use Banrot or tank mix options such as Fenstop, Segway O, Subdue Maxx (with caution due to resistance concerns), or Terrazole to combat Pythium, along with fungicides like 3336, Medallion, Mural, or Postiva to target Rhizoctonia and Thielaviopsis. Under high humidity and prolonged leaf wetness, aerial Rhizoctonia web blight and Botrytis can affect flowers and foliage, particularly in low light conditions. Foliar fungicides such as Affirm, Broadform, Mural, Palladium, and Postiva provide excellent preventative and curative control properties.
Note: Not all products are registered in all states. Some pesticides are restricted use in some states or regions and not others. It is the responsibility of the applicator to read and follow all label directions, remembering that labels may change. Other products may be safe and effective. Rates, application methods, and edible status are detailed in our GGSPro Insecticide & Fungicide Guides. Griffin also offers the 5th Edition GGSPro Technical Reference Guide in both English and now Spanish versions. This valuable resource outlines a wide range of pest control options and information on pollinator safety, BCA’s, scouting, weed management, plant lighting, nutrition, water quality and more!
Fuchsia belongs to the family Onagraceae (evening primrose) and is native to Central and South America and New Zealand. They have common names such as Bleeding Hearts, Lady’s Eardrop, and the Hummingbird Plant. Flowers are composed of clusters of colorful sepals and petals that form a skirt around the stamens (Figure 1). There are more than 100 varieties to select from, with varying flower colors and habits from genetic produces. Varieties range across semi-trailing, trailing and upright habits which can be grown as deciduous shrubs, potted flowering plants, or the popular hanging baskets.

Figure 1: Fuchsia flower form (Dümmen Orange, Trailing Dark Eyes)
While Fuchsia naturally prefers cooler temperatures, many of the selections today have been bred to tolerate heat, allowing plants to perform into the summer season. Fuchsia grows well with cooler temperatures, 55°F nights and 60-65°F days are ideal, although they will grow and bloom well with night temperatures as high as 65°F. Growing fuchsia too warm results in soft, lush growth. Night temperatures below 55°F can be tolerated but will delay blooming. Fuchsia is a moderate to heavy feeder. Keep them evenly moist and fertilized at 200 ppm N constant feed of 20-10-20 or 21-5-20 with rotation of a calcium containing fertilizer such as 15-0-15. The ideal pH is 5.5-6.2. Higher pH can lead to iron deficiency, easily corrected with an application of Plantex Iron EDDHA or DTPA. Common container sizes for Fuchsia are either 4.5” with one plant per pot (ppp) or 10” hanging baskets with four ppp.
Fuchsias are obligate long day plants, meaning they require long days to bloom. Flowering and growth can be stimulated by providing 4 hours of light during the middle of the night at times of the year when photoperiods are naturally short (e.g., winter throughout early spring). A timer can be set to turn the lights on from 10 PM to 2 AM to achieve the desired day-length extension. Continue to light them until the vernal equinox which is March 20th. Flower buds are initiated in mid-March and require a minimum of 12 weeks to achieve a blooming fuchsia for Mother’s Day.
The recommended Fuchsia PGR program is outlined as follows:
- Florel at 500 ppm (1.6 oz/gal) applied as a foliar spray as soon as plants are established produces a heavily branched and compact start for fuchsia. This can be repeated every 2 weeks until February 25th, which should be the last Florel treatment to ensure fuchsia is blooming by May 1st. Florel applied after this will generally delay blooms.
- If you do not use Florel, pinch at planting and every 2-3 weeks until March 1st to insure blooming by May 1st.
- Bonzi can be applied as a 30 ppm (1 oz/gal) spray or as a 1 ppm (3.33 oz/100 gal) drench two to four weeks after the last pinch or Florel treatment. This treatment helps to keep baskets more compact and, in many cases, increases the number of blooms that open in the first flush.
If you get a late start to planting fuchsia, make sure your plants have good roots. Increase the number of plants to 5-6 ppp for a 10” basket. Don’t use Florel past Feb 25th, and hand-shear the early buds. Plants need to accumulate carbohydrates to produce later buds and blooms, so avoid low light levels which could inhibit flower bud formation even after the days are long enough to support flower initiation. Avergage daily temperature is the largest factor in the rate of bud development.
Aphids can pose a problem on the tender new growth of fuchsias (Figure 2). Altus, Endeavor, Mainspring, Safari or Kontos are systemic drench options. Kontos as a drench may take 2 weeks for uptake but provide 6 weeks control. Kontos is also our only systemic miticide against mites. Broad mites can be troublesome, as they inject toxins while feeding, leading to leaf curling. Be cautious of pesticide applications that may also cause leaf curl. Translaminar insecticides such as Avid, Pylon, Savate or Sirocco are top choices, making two applications one week apart.

Figure 2. Aphids on Fuchsia
Rust, a leaf disease, is distinctly identified by the bright orange powder visible on both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. It can disfigure leaves and cause defoliation if left untreated. The alternate host for this pathogen is the fir tree and fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium), a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the willowherb family Onagraceae. Rust can spread quickly in a greenhouse, so at the first sign of infection, remove symptomatic leaves, seal them in a plastic bag, and discard them properly. Apply a systemic fungicide, such as Avelyo, Mural, or Postiva, with two applications one week apart, and follow up with protectant fungicides while rotating MOAs to prevent reoccurrence. Root diseases can disrupt water and nutrient uptake. To protect against root pathogens such as Pythium, Phytophthora, and Thielaviopsis, monthly preventative drenches are recommended. Use Banrot or tank mix options such as Fenstop, Segway O, Subdue Maxx (with caution due to resistance concerns), or Terrazole to combat Pythium, along with fungicides like 3336, Medallion, Mural, or Postiva to target Rhizoctonia and Thielaviopsis. Under high humidity and prolonged leaf wetness, aerial Rhizoctonia web blight and Botrytis can affect flowers and foliage, particularly in low light conditions. Foliar fungicides such as Affirm, Broadform, Mural, Palladium, and Postiva provide excellent preventative and curative control properties.
Item Name | Item Number | MOA | Target Pathogen/Pest |
---|---|---|---|
Florel | 73-16551 (1 qt) 73-16601 (1 gal) 73-16611 (2.5 gal) | 4 | |
Bonzi | 70-1260 (1 qt) 70-1270 (2.5 gal) | 6 | |
3336 EG 3336-F | 71-2550 71-2550 | 1 | Rhizoctonia, Thielaviopsis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight |
Affirm | 71-1131 | 19 | Rhizoctonia, Thielaviopsis, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight |
Avelyo | 71-1195 | 3 | Thielaviopsis, Rust |
Banrot WP/G | 71-1210 71-1215 | 1 & 14 | Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Thielaviopsis |
Broadform | 71-12901 | 7 & 11 | Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight, Rust |
Fenstop | 71-14801 | 11 | Pythium, Phytophthora |
Medallion WDG | 71-16502 | 12 | Rhizoctonia, Thielaviopsis, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight |
Mural WG | 71-1690 | 7 & 11 | Rhizoctonia, Thielaviopsis, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight, Rust |
Orkestra Intrinsic | 71-2205 | 7 & 11 | Rhizoctonia, suppression Pythium, Phytophthora, Thielaviopsis, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight |
Palladium WDG | 71-2685 | 9 & 12 | Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight |
Postiva | 71-2400 | 3 & 7 | Rhizoctonia, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia Web Blight, Rust |
Segway O | 71-31102 | 21 | Pythium, Phytophthora |
Subdue Maxx | 71-2979 | 4 | Pythium, Phytophthora |
Terrazole L | 71-3025 | 14 | Pythium, Phytophthora |
Altus | 70-11612 | 4 | Aphids (foliar/drench) |
Avid 0.15EC | 70-1185 | 6 | Aphids, Mites |
Endeavor WP | 70-1655 | 9B | Aphids (foliar/drench) |
Kontos | 70-19601 | 23 | Aphids (foliar/drench), Mites (drench) |
Mainspring GNL | 70-2331 | 28 | Aphids (drench) |
Pylon | 70-2675 | 13 | Mites |
Rycar | 70-2900 | 9B | Aphids (foliar/drench) |
Safari 20 SG | 70-29951 | 4A | Aphids (drench) |
Savate | 70-29801 | 23 | Mites |
Sirocco SC | 70-30170 | 6 & 20D | Mites |
Note: Not all products are registered in all states. Some pesticides are restricted use in some states or regions and not others. It is the responsibility of the applicator to read and follow all label directions, remembering that labels may change. Other products may be safe and effective. Rates, application methods, and edible status are detailed in our GGSPro Insecticide & Fungicide Guides. Griffin also offers the 5th Edition GGSPro Technical Reference Guide in both English and now Spanish versions. This valuable resource outlines a wide range of pest control options and information on pollinator safety, BCA’s, scouting, weed management, plant lighting, nutrition, water quality and more!